Week 10 of the DownUnder Tour

Well after two weeks we finally felt we had “done” Darwin and once again headed south. First stop was Berry Springs, which is actually a spring fed series of pools that one can swim through, moving either upstream or downstream depending on whether you are Ian Thorpe or Tom & 2 children. The water temperature is very pleasant and there are reportedly no crocs in the pools, which is always a consideration when this far north. Leaving the springs and heading back to the motorhome for a bit of lunch, Mariah made a friend, a green tree frog that must have thought she was a tree. Small wonder the way she is growing, but he climbed right up her until he was on top of her head, stayed there for a while then climbed down and hopped away a bit only to come back and climb Christian! We finally took him back to a tree near the pools and headed out before he could follow us.
From Berry Springs we continued south to Litchfield National Park. This is a very large park with many areas to see so we allowed a few days. Our first foray into the park was to Buley Rock Hole, stopping at some termite mounds along the way. Yes, I know I have written about big termite mounds but couldn’t help sharing this one with you, along with an enlarged photo of one of the million or so blind residents.
We have learned that there are many different varieties of termites, most of which can be differentiated by their mounds. The mounds vary from the type in the picture to ones that look like dinosaur droppings to ones that are shaped like tombstones, with a wide face but narrow depth, reference pictures. These types are referred to as “magnetic termite mounds” because the mounds are typically oriented north – south so the wide sections are exposed to the east-west sun, providing the termites with the heat they need to stay active.
According to the signage in the area the termites are the “principle grazers of the plains, consuming more grass than all the other inhabitants put together”. No wonder the cattle look a bit thin!
Upon arriving at Buley Rock Hole we donned our swimmers and took the short track to the spring fed series of cascading pools. Christian of course had to swim in each and every one of them. There was a goanna on the prowl who thought maybe I would serve as a light snack and walked up to me and licked me on first the shoe and then the shin. He finally backed off when I began to recite my BBQ’d Goanna recipe, but was quite at home wandering amongst the tourists.
The next area of the park we explored was Florence Falls, where a short hike takes one to a lookout overlooking this majestic waterfall. From the lookout you can continue down the “Shady Creek” walk where there are more scenic creek crossings as well as a tropical rainforest boasting both high temperatures (about 28 degrees C) and high humidity, (of around 78%). The area has an abundance of wildlife, including this rock wallaby.
The bottom of Florence Falls is nearly as pretty as the top but perhaps more tempting for a swim.
On one of the nights we spent in Litchfield, we stayed in the campground adjacent to Wangi Falls, an area that they have closed to the public for now due to a number of drownings as a result of people getting trapped under water from the currents from the falls.
For sheer beauty though, have a look at the photo on the left of Tolmer Falls, one of the falls with a big vertical drop into a deep pool in a gorge. The beauty of nature is everywhere here, from the flowering gum nuts to the bower birds bowers. Note that whilst blue is the colour of choice for ornaments in Queensland with the bower birds, in the Northern Territory it is white. Comically, since coming to WA, we have noted that the bower birds use both blue and white, just to be sure I guess.
From Litchfield we ventured south again to Katherine where we made the turn to the west toward WA. We revisited the Katherine Hot Springs and explored areas such as low level crossing, (pictured).
Between Katherine and the border is Gregory National Park, offering a hike providing splendid views over the ranges and Victoria River. This was a good place to stretch the legs and get the blood moving as we headed up the escarpment for some fresh air.
We finally made it to the West Australia border and the quarantine station where we donated our remaining lettuce, cabbage and limes. It did not seem too bad at the time, but once we got to the next town to restock, you would not believe the prices of fruit & veggies! I may never pay $2.96 for 2 limes again, but one really needs them to make a proper gin & tonic right?
Next week we take to the air with a flight over the Bungle Bungles, Lake Argyle and the diamond mine, take a cruise through Geeky Gorge in Fitzroy Crossing, then head to Derby, (home of the biggest tides in the southern hemisphere) to celebrate Maree's birthday, take a 4 wheel drive coach tour of Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek.
What an incredible country!